🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.